Update:
I posted last week about non-resort travel to Jamaica and got LOTS of feedback here. A lot of people felt it was not a smart move to venture off a resort in Jamaica. I am now back from my trip so thought I would share how it went for those who might be considering a similar trip.
I stayed 2 nights in an airbnb in Montego Bay (in Montego West Village, a gated community) and 2 nights at a beach hotel in Negril (on the 7 Mile Beach). Three of my girlfriends arrived 3 days earlier than me and I met up with them in the airbnb.
- Safety: I never felt unsafe and we did go out for dinners in restaurants and drinks after dark around the Hip Strip of Montego Bay and Pier 1 restaurant and along the 7 Mile Beach in Negril. The sun sets at 5:30pm so it is kind of hard to avoid being out after dark! We made sure not to walk in areas without lots of other people. We exercised common sense you would use in any big city (e.g. don't flash your valuables around, don't wear flashy jewellery, don't look lost, don't get drunk).
- yes as 4 women we would get some catcalls, but honestly I have encountered more aggressive men in Toronto.
- The only time I felt uneasy was when we went to Rick's Cafe. Our taxi driver (who we hailed randomly on the street, he did not have the official taxi sign or red plate so that was our mistake) came in to Rick's even though we did not ask him to wait for us. But it is pretty common a taxi driver will hang around so they can drive you back. While we were there he was smoking a TON of weed. Rick's Cafe security staff actually approached him and asked him to leave (I think? I was too far to overhear the conversation... Rick's Cafe has a big sign saying you can't smoke weed there) but somehow he was allowed to linger around us at the bar and we just tried to ignore him. We ended up sneaking out when he wasn't looking and taking another taxi. The next night, we ran into him at a club and he came up to my friend and was angry we didn't use him for our return trip and swore at her and was extremely rude.
- Yes, there is crime and I was aware of the state of emergency in Jamaica as well as Canada's travel advisory. I spoke to locals and they were not shy to talk about the problems with crime in their country. However, all said that crimes are targeted and usually outside of the tourist areas. The tourism industry is huge there are it is in their best interest to keep those places safe. There IS crime in places like Negril, but our hotel security guard told us as long as we don't walk on the beach past midnight we are fine. He did share that when he is driving at night, he does not come to a full stop at stop lights because of concerns of carjacking.
- We went out to The Jungle - a nightclub in Negril. Our hotel security guard said it is a good, safe place to go because everyone gets searched prior to entry and they have tight security. I did feel safe there are saw a mix of locals and tourists, but I don't recommend it as the DJ was pretty awful and everyone was smoking weed on the dance floor (luckily it is an open air space but still, my clothes reeked after). No judgement for smoking weed if that is what you are into, but if you don't like the smell don't go here.
- Taxis: we had a few phone numbers from taxi drivers and would whatsapp them when we needed a ride. For longer trips (e.g. day trip to Ocho Rios) we arranged it in advance and had the driver take us around for the day. We needed negotiation skills for sure. My taxi from the airport to the airbnb was 30 USD which was using the official taxi. It was more because the airbnb is a bit further from the airport than most hotels/resorts. Taxi from Montego West Village to Doctor's Cave Beach was 1500 JMD one way, although many tried to charge us 2000-3000 or would argue it costs more because we are 4 people. I did notice some taxis tried to name a price per person instead of a price based on the distance. Also, double check the taxi's seat belts are working. I went in one where the seat belt was broken.
- Knutsford Express bus: had a great experience taking the bus from Negril to Montego Bay. It is under 2 hours and only stops in Lucea (on the way) and Pier 1 (courrier stop) and then brings you right to Montego Bar airport departures gate. My ticket was only 1900 JMD (~$15 CAD) and the bus was air conditioned and super comfortable. My hotel was charging $60USD per person for a private transfer. 2 of my friends took that option as they had an earlier flight to catch and their driving time was practically the same as the time the bus took. I purchased my ticket online 1 day in advance. Keep in mind on Sundays there is only one departure (9am).
- Cash: I brought both JMD and USD. Cash is king in Jamaica! Many places said they accept credit card but when I asked, the machine was broken or you have to walk to a different office to use the machine and it was just a hassle so try to bring cash. There are Scotiabank ATM's everywhere but some may have issues (one I went to had a broken screen, one had a massive line up where people were waiting for hours!). Try to pay in JMD when you can if given a choice as the prices in USD often have an unfavourable exchange rate.
- SIM card: my friend bought her's in the Digicel in town and for 10 MB of data for less than $10 I believe. I went to the Digicel at the airport and the woman said it's $20 USD for 5 days (2MB) so I said no. I ended up not getting a SIM card. As long as one person in your group has data, that should be enough. You definitely need data if you are taking taxis as drivers communicate with you by whatsapp.
- Excursions: We wanted to go to Turtle River falls but it is closed. We went to Konoko Falls and garden in Ocho Rios and it was really quiet and lovely. You can climb up the waterfalls. Admission is $20 USD. It is way less crowded than Dunn's. It is smaller than Dunn's but I liked it as it was very chill. The girls did the Rastafari ATV tour in a small group (less than 10 people), not sure which operator they used, but they loved it.
- Beaches: we loved Doctor's Cave Beach in Montego Bay. You have to pay a small entrance fee, but because of that there are no people trying to sell you stuff there. You have to pay extra to rent a chair or umbrella. There is a small Pier 1 restaurant/bar and Starbucks, plus clean indoor and outdoor showers and indoor changerooms. However, they close around 5:30pm when the lifeguards go home. If you go around 4:30 or 5pm it is really nice and not crowded. In Negril, we loved the Seven Mile Beach. Yes there are people selling things but I didn't find it bothersome, I would say a polite "no thanks" and people would move along. I got offered cannabis several times but no one was too pushy. I felt safe walking on that beach after dinner as there are many hotels/small resorts and all have security.
- Restaurants: favourite meals were Pier 1 in Montego Bay (great DJ and cocktails too), Rasta Ade (vegan Ital cuisine on the Seven Mile Beach in Negril), Best in the West (jerk chicken on the side of the road in Negril), and Miss Lily's (at Skylark Hotel in Negril - this place is SO cute, sort of like Negril's answer to the Drake Hotel - food is amazing and service super friendly). Oh and I tried both Tastee and Juici Patties and I am team Tastee!

- airbnb was great because we had a kitchen and laundry. So helpful to be able to wash clothes as washing stuff in the sink isn't ideal as it is so humid that things don't really dry. It also gave us the opportunity to go to the local market and grocery store to try some amazing Jamaican produce like soursop, custard apples, and starfruit.
- Yes, bargaining for things all the time can be tiring if you aren't used to it. I do prefer going to places where taxis are metered and prices are clearly displayed in stores. And yes there will be random people trying to sell you stuff. BUT don't let that stop you from striking up conversations with locals, because you will find they are really open and friendly if they see you are genuinely interested in learning about their country and culture, and don't just see them as being there to "serve" you as a tourist.
- Everyone I met there highly recommended that next time I go to Portland parish for a more relaxing vibe and lots of outdoors activities, so I think next time I will check that area out.
Overall, we had a fabulous time and for anyone on the fence about going off resort, I would say go for it but just be smart about it and careful. I'll share some photos in the comments

Wow! Thank you for sharing your experience.

I went off the resort on my own in Montego Bay earlier this year in Sept...i was a little nervous (especially traveling alone as a woman) but after that experience, I found the confidence to venture off on my own! Jamaica is such a beautiful island, with so much to explore. If I hadn't left the resort in Jamaica, I never would've discovered doctors cave, which had one of the most beautiful coral reefs I've seen.
Just came back from my first solo trip in Mexico, rented a car and stayed at hostels and airbnbs. And yes, airbnbs are great because you can cook and do your own laundry! Next time I go to Jamaica I'm definitely renting an airbnb.
Also, getting a local sim would've saved me over $200 which I didn't do in Jamaica. Learned my lesson! Got one a few weeks ago in mexico and I only paid about $20 CAD!

Melissa yes! doctor's cave is great for snorkeling. yes you have to pay to go but it has a bit of a local vibe too. we met some americans there who were working remotely for several months in Jamaica. i saw several solo female travelers at Skylark Hotel in Negril.
And local SIM is definitely the way to go - much cheaper than Rogers roam like home which is $15/day!!

Denise when you get a local SIM card, does this change your original phone number? So when you go home and put your old SIM card back in, are you good to go?

June yes, when you get the foreign SIM card you have to remove your home SIM card so temporarily you can't use your home phone number. But when you go home, you put your home SIM card back in and are good to go. If you have a new phone, there is also something called eSIM card where it is not a physical card. I think it allows you to maintain 2 phone numbers (Toronto + foreign), but I'm not 100% sure as my phone doesn't have that capacity. You might want to search online about eSIM as it is apparently super convenient and affordable. The one a lot of my friends use is called airalo. Hope that helps!!

Thanks so much for this information. My phone service could not answer that question.

Thank you for sharing! I am not a resort person so I've always avoided places like Jamaica; it's nice to hear that there are options to have a good trip if you want to avoid all-inclusives.

Jenni Totally! I am not a resort person either, but my friends wanted some sun and we discovered there is so much to see and do in Jamaica beyond resorts. If we had gone to Kingston area there are even more things to do in terms of art/culture. It is a beautiful place with really rich history and culture.

Denise That's great to know! I am a history/culture/food type traveller and I feel like I am running out of places that I can go for a week in the winter where I can get good weather but do more than just sit on a resort. I am going to look into Jamaica.

Seven mile beach

Vegan breakfast at Rasta Ade in Negril, calalloo, ackee, plantain and other organic local fruits and veg

Miss Lily's Negril

Local fruit

Best in the West jerk chicken $14USD

Rasta Ade

Thanks for sharing these wonderful stories and tips!!

yeah i did montego bay non-resort a few yrs ago, and never felt unsafe. great to hear that you had a good experience!

Wow! Helpful post.

Doctors cave beach, MoBay

Konoko Falls, Ochi - there was a small bus group but after they left we had the whole place to ourselves and this was midday!

Meghann Wright some good info for your trip

Susy Cabral

Wow, that’s a great post for anyone that hasn’t been and is thinking of going to JA. You covered everything!!!

Clare yes hopefully it can help others out. Non-resort travel definitely requires more planning around logistics etc but IMO is totally worth it! Thanks for reading my super long post lol

Same I travel solo and don't stay at resorts in Jamaica have done most the things you list above never feel unsafe plan to relocate there eventually

Thank you for sharing

Thanks for the info - similar to my experiences off resort all over Mexico - there is always risk with travel but with good sense, planning , kindness and awareness , trips are way more likely be nothing but positive , in any part of the world.

Jasmine So true! I did off resort in Mexico as well (Sayulita, Mexico City) and loved it.

Denise heading to Sayulita and Yelapa myself, oh fellow traveler!

Sarah enjoy!! If you happen to practice yoga, Paraiso Yoga and Los Suenos are both nice local studios in Sayulita. And everyone told me to get a chocobanana and I didn't know what the big deal was, but then I got one and it was really tasty haha! Tons of cheap and yummy taco stands by the beach. If you want a small beach that is away from the crowds, try Playa de los Muertos just past the cemetery. No amenities (showers, changerooms) but there are often people selling coconuts - you drink the water and then go back and they chop it open so you can eat the coconut flesh (with lime juice and chili! So good).

Denise planning to walk there! Thank you for these tips.

YES! So glad you reported back. I was shocked at how many people wouldn't leave a resort. Jamaica is one of the most beautiful countries with beautiful people. Once you have visited in a non-AI, you will never go back to AI. Thanks for the very detailed report.

Thank you for all these tips and details!!!

Awesome review! Thanks

Very detailed thank you

Fab post Denise and yay for trying both Juici and Tastee. As one of those who commented "go with care," really glad it all (mostly) worked out for you all. This group is super-helpful. And I think it's important to recognize travel and travellers are a spectrum. AI can be great (new to a place, set budget, group or family travel). But much is missed if you never leave a resort, especially local people/ authentic culture. Also, not best to stereotype an entire large island based on violence largely one city. If Canadians did that we would also not go to U.S. or anywhere in Mexico. If/when you plan to return, I highly reco checking Port Antonio area within Portland Parish -- chill and scenic -- region of many James Bond films. Distant but if if you like coffee and a "jungle", the Blue Mountains are worth a trip within trip too.

Thanks!! Yes, i agree AI or cruises are definitely convenient (especially for families) and you don't have to think about anything which is nice! There is a time and a place for that for sure. But as you said, the downside is not really getting much of a local experience. There are pros/cons to everything! A trip like mine took a lot of planning. This group was a great resource.
Yes, Jamaica is a big island and you can't really generalize about things like safety. As for those Canada travel advisories, they will often say "exercise a high degree of caution" but when you read the fine print it applies in certain areas only (same warning is on the government of Canada website for places like Mexico or Thailand that has some more dangerous areas but also many safer areas).
I am already looking into Port Antonio and dreaming of going back to Jamaica
Glad you hear you liked it there!

Ameen Bhanji Jamaica?

Thank you for sharing, Denise!

Thanks for the very detailed information.

If you are up for an even more immersive
Experience where you can meet locals beyond the beach try volunteering in one of the grassroots volunteer projects.
SC StepUp Literacy

Marcus La

F

Thank you for sharing

This is all really good. Thank you honestly. I’m always afraid to go there. Now I might even try it because of you! Also from Toronto

Lisa you're so welcome!! That's exactly why I wanted to share this information, to help other travelers

Denise super helpful, truly.

Thanks

Let’s just say you were lucky. Glad you had a good time.

Thanks for sharing

You're a real one for sharing this info - thanks!

Michelle you're very welcome:)

Did you end up using the driver I recommended????

Michelle I didn't because my friends had arrived earlier and already had a couple drivers they were in contact with (including one who lived in the same gated community where our airbnb was, so super convenient), but thanks so much for sharing the info. Will keep in mind for next time!

Denise glad you enjoyed Jamaica, I'll never figure out the fears people have going there lol. They're nicer than most people downtown lol

Michelle totally, there are definitely a lot of misconceptions and negative stereotypes about Jamaica which is why I wanted to share my positive experience

Very thorough review! Thank you for sharing!

Great trip report!

Great trip report

I need Jamaica thanks for sharing your exp ! This really helps especially for solo travellers like my self !

Enjoy life it’s great

Allison Jean

Thanks for the post. I’m happy you had a wonderful and safe vacation. I do find it interesting that people are reading this and saying that they now feel safe about travelling around Jamaica, suggesting that the fears others have are based on misconceptions. When you mention that your hotel security guard himself doesn’t stop at lights out of concern for carjackings, or that “everyone gets searched going into the nightclub” it doesn’t sound like these fears are completely misguided. And the situation with your taxi driver could have been worse if he had known where you were staying.
I’m a pretty experienced traveller and there are risks everywhere, but some places ARE more dangerous than others and just because you had a good outcome doesn’t mean it’s a safe place to travel in the style you did. I know someone who, when a local discovered she had cash on her, broke into her villa, demanded at knifepoint that she open her safe, and then beat her and robbed her, leaving her for dead. Trying to navigate through the justice system for her has been a nightmare because many of the police corrupt.
The first time I was there, we too went to Rick’s café. Our driver did wait for us and told us he did that “for our safety”. On another trip, when we went to a club from Runaway Bay into Montego Bay, the driver waited for us, also “for our safety”. When we exited the club, he greeted us at the door and walked us through the parking lot to his awaiting cab. There is a reason they do this—it’s because the taxi drivers realize that, in general, it is unsafe.
I have Jamaican friends here in Canada who tell me they would not go back to Jamaica because of the violence. Another gay couple tell me they feared for their lives living there as it is, according to them, still a very homophobic culture. So I do think you were lucky but I don’t think the takeaway from this post is that Jamaica is ‘safe like anywhere else’ if you are careful. I’m afraid I just don’t agree.

Rivka thanks so much for your input and sharing your perspective.
Absolutely, I did not mean to imply Jamaica is 100% safe (nowhere is really) and that everyone should travel the way I did. I just wanted to share my personal experience and offer a bit more nuance to the discussion. I mentioned the carjacking and other things because of course crime and violence are still very much a problem in Jamaica and I don't want to pretend it doesn't exist.
And that is really awful what happened to the person you knew. Sadly there are lots of stories like that. A lot of people shared stories like that in my original post and there is no shortage of them in the news. So my intention was not to minimize those safety concerns, but rather to offer a bit of perspective beyond those simply saying "never go to Jamaica" or "never go off resort". It is a big island with a diversity of experiences. I have a friend who's inlaws are in Jamaica and they live up in the mountains, it's very rural and she feels really safe there. Certain areas of Kingston and MoBay, not so much. People who are scared to go or concerned about their safety may have very good reason to be. (Not to mention certain groups such as LGBTQ individuals - I would agree it is not a particularly safe place if you belong to that group).
The beauty is we don't all have to go to the same places or enjoy the same things. And we each have our own risk thresholds. I knew that going to an airbnb in Montego Bay with 3 girls would involve taking a calculated risk. It is one I was willing to take. It might not be for someone else. On the other hand, I did not jump off the cliffs at Rick's Cafe lol! (too dangerous for me, did not want to risk injury! But many tourists were doing it. That's their decision!). I simply want to share information to help others make an informed decision.
Some people commented on my original post (posted before I left on the trip) that I was "unwise" to travel this way, and others commented on this post that I was "lucky". Of course luck plays a role in pretty much everything we do. But my friends and I did not just show up clueless in Jamaica and hope for the best. We did a lot of research, talking to friends from and in Jamaica and exercised caution while still having fun.
It's a big world out there and for those who are concerned about safety issues in Jamaica, there are lots of other places to visit! But we are really glad we went and it is a beautiful, special place despite its problems.

I was in negrel in May and we only had one taxi wait for us he didn't go with us to the first store or the grocery store but did come into the last store but he talked to the staff so I assume he knew them all other taxis we called them when we were ready to leave. I never once felt unsafe and bring a smoker I spent time at night outside bars alone having a smoke not once was I approached by anybody. I would go back in a heart beat

Keep in mind that it financially benefits these resorts greatly to push this message of a violent, murderous Jamaica to keep you 'scared' so youll stay on their resorts. It honestly feels like there are racist undertones in this message aswell.

Mariah Very good point. I agree. Many things are overcharged through resorts and they often tell you not to do things yourself. There are a lot of private transfers e.g. from MoBay to Negril $60 USD+ per person, whereas I took the bus and it was clean and safe for $11 USD.
And yes that article contradicts itself! It says crimes occur IN resorts and then also says don't leave the resort... Confusing!!

Denise Yeah, im very skeptical of the narrative that is constantly pushed. Every country or city has "bad areas", it's just a matter of doing your research, and making smart choices, no matter where you are!

Super info! Tgankbyou!

Hi, i believe you meant GBs, not MBs

Maria Oops you re right!!

Great report, thanks for the info. Glad you had a great time and were safe!

Thanks for sharing this! Jamaica is on my list to visit in the upcoming year!

Wow this must have taken you quite a while to write up; thank you for sharing your advice so freely for our benefit!
Glad you had a great trip.

Thank you for taking the time to share this. It's great to hear about the experiences and the realities.